A Long Weekend in Big Sur
After more than 4 years of living in Los Angeles, I finally made it up to Big Sur! It’s always been at the top of my list of places to visit, but whether Highway 1 was closed (notorious for landslides) or hotels/campsites were fully booked, my plans to visit just never worked out. If you’re planning a trip, I’d suggest booking months in advance, but if you’re anything like me and prefer spontaneity (aka waiting until the last minute to book), then my advice is to cross your fingers and hope for the best!
Luckily, the latter worked in my favor this time, so Sunday morning I woke up bright and early to start my solo roadtrip up the coast. I booked 2 nights at the Big Sur River Inn and took my time driving the PCH, stopping at nearly every single vista point along the way.
Besides the countless breathtaking views of cliffs and rocky pacific coastline, I made sure to check out the Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery—where I discovered that elephant seals are big weird blobs and their vocalizations sound like somebody banging on a bucket. And for a second I thought I was hallucinating while driving by Wild Zebras grazing the hillsides in San Simeon. Yes you heard me, WILD ZEBRAS! Fun fact, a group of zebras is called a “Dazzle”. (cue jazz hands)
By the time I checked into the hotel it was already late afternoon and the sun was descending into the horizon. I was really hoping to catch golden hour and sunset at McWay Falls, so I wasted no time driving back down to Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park. Unfortunately, the park wasn’t open due to COVID restrictions, and all trails including a portion of the McWays Falls Overlook trail were closed. But views of the cove were still accessible from the road, so I parked at a turnoff and walked over to the edge of the cliffside for this spectacular site.
Watching the golden illuminated ribbon of McWay Falls delicately cascade into the crashing waves below was truly incredible to witness. I was only standing on the side of the highway, but the bouquet of dry coastal shrubs and fallen sycamore leaves, the fragrant rich salty earth and bright piney redwoods, the crisp autumnal air and warmth of the setting sun, and the roar of the sea echoing in the cove below transported me to a place I’ve only daydreamed about. And as the fleeting glow faded out on the rocky bluffs, the day ended just as quickly as it began.
The next morning I woke up at dawn, and in true Big Sur fashion, the sky was cloaked in a thick frigid fog. Reminded of some of my favorite fall days growing up on the East Coast, I bundled up in layers and watched my breath escape between my chattering teeth as I waited for my car to defrost. My plan was to drive 30 minutes north to hike the coastal headlands at Garrapata State Park. I wanted to arrive before the crowds, so I cranked up the heat and left with growing anticipation.
Back on the winding Highway 1 my impatience was quickly rewarded! As I rounded the curve of the Santa Lucia mountains and the ocean came into full display in front of me, the clouds opened for just a brief moment to let the sun light up the most brilliant rainbow just off the coast! I had to pull over to admire it for the few minutes that it lasted.
And what kind of Big Sur trip would it be without seeing the iconic Bixby Bridge? Of course I had to stop for some obligatory photos of this architectural marvel!
Garrapata State Park has miles of diverse trails ranging from beach front on the west side of Highway 1 to dense Redwood groves on the east side, with several access point gates along the way. I parked on the dirt pulloff at Gate 8, the park’s main trailhead. There were only a few other cars when I arrived, and I found myself in complete isolation at the Soberanes Point trail on the coastal side of the park.
I spent the morning wandering along this sandy path and balancing on the edge of these headlands, watching the intense blue waves hypnotically break against the contrasting green and orange succulent covered rocks. The kelp beds seemed to have mastered their ballet and were performing just for me, swaying and bobbing in synchrony with the ebb and flow. I couldn’t help but imagine a world of mythological sirens singing their enchanting songs. If I were a mermaid, this is most definitely where I would live.
Eventually the morning turned into afternoon, and I found my solitude disappearing with the marine layer. This is a very popular park and with groups of people gathering on the trail I decided it was time to get back to town for lunch. When I returned to the trailhead there was a line of cars parked on the shoulder of the road stretching for at least a 1/4 mile. Glad I got here early!
Now that the sun was out and the sky was clear, I couldn’t help but check out Garrapata Beach on the way back. The rocky coastline abruptly stopped at the vast sandy shore and I had the whole place to myself. The feeling of total seclusion was nothing like the busy beaches I’m used to in LA.
After a half hour or so of strolling the untouched sand and watching a harbor seal play in the surf it was time to continue back towards town. But as I drove by Andrew Molera State Park, the colors of the changing leaves were just too irresistible to pass, so I had to stop for a quick hike through a section of the Big Sur River trail. I didn’t make it very far before my hunger pangs became too difficult to ignore, so I convinced myself that I wouldn’t make any more stops until I ate some lunch. There’s just too much to see and not enough time in these short autumn days!
My biggest goal of this trip was to see the Keyhole Arch at Pfeiffer Beach during sunset, and with only a couple hours of daylight left I had no time to rest. So after lunch at Big Sur Bakery and a quick break at the hotel, I headed back out, south on Highway 1 to Pfeiffer Beach.
A little bit off the beaten path, this beach is only accessible by a poorly maintained two-mile-long narrow road with a small designated parking area at the end. The lot fills up quickly, which I unfortunately learned a little too late. There was a ranger directing traffic at the top of Sycamore Canyon Road, blocking the entrance because the lot was already at capacity. To say I was bummed is an understatement, completely devastated is a little more accurate.
But as I watched the cars ahead of me, filled with disappointed families of tourists, u-turning at the blockade of orange cones, I decided not to give up as easily as them. Instead, I stopped to chat with the ranger, and a friendly conversation (okay, maybe a little bit more desperate than friendly) was all that it took to get me in! I couldn’t have been more relieved. Without wasting anymore time, I drove down as quickly as I could and rushed along the sandy path, finally making it to the beach just in time to catch this magnificent light show!
Every year for just a couple weeks around the winter solstice, a beautiful natural phenomena happens at the Keyhole Arch. Right before sunset, the sun will dip down in the center of the arch. On a clear evening with a low tide, the angle of the late-autumn sun allows for a stunning glow. This light show doesn’t have fixed dates, but if you can be there at the right moment you’ll see a beautiful, magical, and rare sunset. This once-in-a-lifetime experience is something I don’t think I’ll ever forget, and I’m eternally grateful to that ranger for letting me in.
Once the sun moved out of alignment, I found a comfortable spot in the sand to sit and watch another day end before my eyes—a brilliant golden display of the passing of time.
I slept late the next morning, in no rush to be anywhere in particular besides the drive back home to LA. So for breakfast I decided to make one last stop at Nepenthe, a restaurant and cafe perched at the top of Big Sur with an aerial terrace and 180º view of the ocean. I came here for dinner the night I arrived, but it was already dark outside so I promised myself I would come back during the day. A slow breakfast enjoying an incredible view, and reflecting on the last couple days was the perfect way to end my long weekend in Big Sur.
I’ll come back to Big Sur soon, and hopefully it won’t take me another 4 years! I’d love to hear what you think about my trip, as well as anything I missed or need to check out next time? Leave me some love in the comments below!